Two-Fisted Culinary Tales

To an epicure, certain items are beyond praise: Olive oil, holy basil, noodles, good stock. Counted among these magnificent essentials is the simple tomato. Grown in summer or in a hothouse off-season, they are always worth it, always important.

Something to reflect on during these difficult times.

Also, rogue chef Anthony Bourdain is back with a new cookbook. From the roast chicken recipe : Don't throw away "the pope's nose" (the ass). That's flavor. The entire volume is like that, obscure secrets of the trade laced with profanity. I spent a while with it in the bookstore yesterday, and came away with provocative new ideas about vinagrette and boeuf.